Ciao! I wasn’t going to write again for a few more days, but these past two days have been filled with some special memories and I really would like to document them.
We had a free day to do whatever we wanted this Friday, so we planned on going to Civita Di Bagnoregio with Hayley, but there were train strikes all day so we had to reschedule our trip for Saturday instead. Once Saturday arrived – after sleeping in and taking our time to drink cappuccinos and eat pastries, of course – we rode a train to Orvieto, bused to Bagneregio, and then walked to Civita di Bagnoregio. And when I say walked, I mean hiked. The city is literally on a mountain in the middle of a cavernous valley, and the only way to access the city is by foot, up a bridge that is about half a mile long. Again, reminder, this is up a MOUNTAIN ok I WAS TIRED. I literally had to stop for water once we entered the city gates and I think I sucked it down in record time.
The city, however, is so so so gorgeous. We had a train to catch very soon, so we didn’t get to take as much time as I would have liked but it was well worth the time we did have. There are only about 20 or so locals who live on the mountain, and they take such great pride in their peaceful habitation. Everything was beautiful and well-kept, and the locals were so friendly and so grateful to us for visiting their homes. We visited an old artist in his studio, and we stayed there for at least 15 minutes. He showed us his art and his wife’s art and insisted we take photos with him and each other to remind us of our time in the city. He had a saying he kept repeating: “If it’s better than your dreams, if it is better than anything you could imagine, then it is Civita.” (FYI, I have felt this sentiment the ENTIRE trip so far). Hayley ended up buying some art from him and he was so grateful for our time that he sent us away with a few gifts, as well.
The architecture was ancient, as well. The plateau is steadily corroding, and plans to stabilize the land have failed, so I felt appreciative that we got to see it the way it was and when we did. The locals actually call it La città che muore, or "The Dying Town". The city was founded about 2,500 years ago, and it owes much of its unaltered condition to its isolation in the valley. Since it is so remote, it was also able to withstand many attempts of modernization as well as destruction from both world wars. Because of all of this, when you enter the city, it literally feels like a step back in time. Again, I made sure to touch all of the buildings that hadn’t been renovated since their conception. An entire city that hasn’t been touched for over 2,500 years. It was an incredible experience, and though we were pressed for time, I am so glad we went.
We have also managed to make a few local friends while we have been here. Giulia and Federicka own a bar up the street called “La Posta,” and they threw us Americans a welcome party. They provided games, took us around the city, and introduced us to a few more locals. Federicka’s boyfriend, Cucco, and his best friend, Nick, have also threatened to beat up any skeevy Italian men who bothered us – which I find charming, hilarious, and comforting all at the same time. Castiglion is so small and a lot of the locals showed up to meet us. When we played games, they had a chant that went like this: “Tu sei uno di noi!” which meant “you are one of us!” In all honesty, these people care about us so much and in the week we have been here, have made every effort to make us feel safe, comfortable, and happy. They are so glad we are partaking in their culture and making efforts to learn more about their county, and of course we are, too. We now have a place to study, to congregate, to drink, and to connect. Tonight, I feel so protected and included and loved, and by the way, mom, I’m not coming home because I’m moving in with Giulia (she even said I could bring my dogs).
Ciao for now!
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